
We visited March 2026
We landed in Delhi and within minutes there was a cow standing completely still in the middle of the road, like it had always been there and always would be.
Cars just went around it. A horn somewhere behind us didn’t change anything. Oli looked at me and I remember both of us doing that quiet recalibration you do when a place feels immediately louder and closer than expected.
Jax pressed his forehead to the window and said nothing for a while.
That first drive into the city set the tone for our time in India. Not dramatic, just constant input. Sound, movement, people, heat. Everything happening at once.

We planned India carefully, or at least we thought we had. Two weeks, Golden Triangle, a driver booked so we didn’t have to figure out transport with luggage and Jax in the heat. On paper it felt like the sensible version.
The reality was that we were already tense before we even properly started.
It wasn’t one big thing. It was a constant background feeling for me, Bec, of scanning everything. Food, water, hands, surfaces. Thinking ahead of every decision like there might be a consequence we couldn’t easily fix.
Oli felt it differently. More logistical. Routes, timings, making sure we were not stopping in places too long. Jax noticed it in his own way and asked more questions than usual about whether things were safe to eat, safe to touch, safe to drink.
We answered honestly, but it meant nothing ever felt simple.
Even short walks became something we were aware of. Not scared, exactly. Just switched on all the time.
There were moments of interest. Temples, markets, the scale of everything. But they never fully settled into comfort. It always felt like we were passing through something slightly too intense to sit inside properly.
And then Oli got sick. Not seriously, but enough to tighten everything even further. The kind of travel illness that makes you question every meal you had two days ago and every decision you are about to make next.
After that, we stopped relaxing at all.
We moved through the Golden Triangle with that feeling of being slightly on guard. Delhi, Agra, Jaipur. Each place different, but our response stayed the same.
We tried to stay practical. Keep routines for Jax. Stick to what we knew we could control. But control felt thin.
Tuk tuks, traffic, crowds around landmarks, constant negotiation of space. Even when things were fine, we were still thinking ahead to the next moment.

There were small bits Jax enjoyed in the middle of it. Sitting in the tuk tuk with the wind on his face. Watching everything rush past without needing to process it all. He liked those moving moments more than the stops.
But he also started saying, very directly, that he didn’t want to come back. Not in a dramatic way. Just a clear preference. He didn’t like it there and didn’t see why we would return.
That sat with us more than anything else.
Because it wasn’t said once. It came up again, in different places, with the same conclusion.
We talked about as a family. Whether we were pushing through something for the sake of a plan we had made months earlier. We had year visas. We had a route planned north towards Darjeeling, then down to Goa. It was all there, waiting.
But none of us felt pulled forward.
We went from India into Nepal and it was like the volume dropped without us realising how loud it had been.
Not better or worse, just different in a way that made us notice our own reactions.
We walked more. Sat more. Talked less about logistics. We ate without overthinking every step in the same way. Jax relaxed in a way we hadn’t really seen for a couple of weeks.
And that’s where the question started properly forming.
We had return flights back into India booked from Nepal. The plan was simple. Go back, continue north, carry on the route we had designed.
But sitting there, looking at those flights, none of us wanted them.
There wasn’t a big emotional moment about it. No dramatic decision. Just a quiet agreement building over a few days that we didn’t want to go back into that same feeling again.
We started saying it out loud. What if we didn’t return.
We had already been in India for two weeks. We had done what we came to do, in a way. But more than that, nothing in us was leaning towards more time there.
We flew from Nepal back into Delhi, then onward to Chennai, and out of India to Malaysia. It felt structured on paper, but in reality it was just a decision being followed through.
There is a version of this where we stayed. Pushed on. Given it more time. Seen if it shifted.
We did talk about that. Whether two weeks was enough to make a call like this on a country that big and varied.
But travel with a child makes those decisions less abstract. Jax was clear in a way we couldn’t ignore. And we were not enjoying it enough to override that just for the sake of seeing more.
It felt like one of those points in long-term travel where flexibility matters more than sticking to what you planned.
Not every place is going to be for every family. That sounds obvious, but it’s different when you are in it, with flights already booked and visas already paid for.
We left with questions still sitting there. Whether we should have given it more time. Whether something would have shifted if we had stayed longer, slowed down, changed how we were travelling inside the country.
Maybe it would have. Maybe not.
We didn’t have the energy left to find out.
And that has to be allowed too.
We still talk about India. Not in a simple way. More in pieces. Things we saw, things we remember clearly, things that didn’t sit right for us.
It wasn’t a place we fell in love with. And for this stage of our travels, that was enough information to move on.